Loading
The fine print
These are the standing rules of the house: what a bid means, what the hold is, what we charge, and what we do not do. They are written to be read before you bid rather than after something goes wrong.
Last updated 24 September 2026.
A bid you confirm is an offer to buy that car, and we treat it as binding. You register once, by accepting the buyer agreement and saving a card. Before your first bid on an auction you place a refundable $500 hold on that card. If you win, the buyer fee of 5% of the winning bid, never more than $5,000, goes on your card when the auction closes. The car itself is paid for and collected directly between you and the seller.
Everything below says the same things in more detail, plus the parts that only matter when something is unusual. Read how bidding works alongside this, and read the terms on the page of the car you are bidding on. Each auction states its own fee, hold and closing rule, frozen when it was published, and where the two differ the car’s page wins.
“We” and “Reggie’s Garage” mean the auction business operating this website from Seaside, California. “You” means whoever is using it, whether you are browsing, registered, bidding or selling.
Using the site means accepting these terms. Registering to bid means accepting the buyer agreement, which is shown to you at the point of registration and recorded against your account with the version, the time and the address you accepted from. When the agreement changes, you accept the new version before bidding on cars published under it.
You must be old enough to enter a binding contract where you live, and you must be bidding for yourself or for someone who has authorised you. An account is personal to you. Do not share your sign-in, and do not let somebody else bid under your name.
Browsing is open to everybody. Bidding is not. To bid you register once: accept the buyer agreement and save a card. Registration is approved the moment both are on file, and it covers every car on the site. We can pause or close a registration, and if we do we will tell you the reason we recorded.
Before your first bid on an auction you place a refundable hold of $500 on the card you saved. One hold covers every bid you make on that car, or every car in a live auction. A hold is not a charge and not a payment toward the car: it reserves the amount against your available credit. If you do not win, it is released when the auction closes. If you win, it is released once the buyer fee has been paid. Your bank may take a few days after that to show the release, which is their timing rather than ours.
The hold can be captured rather than released if you win and then do not settle, or if you place bids you have no intention of honouring. That is the only reason it exists. Where a particular auction sets a different figure, that figure is shown on the car’s page before you place the hold.
The card details themselves never reach our database. Vaulting, holds and charges are handled by our payment processor; we store an identifier, the card brand and the last four digits so you can tell your own cards apart.
Every bid you confirm is an offer to buy that vehicle at that price, and you cannot take it back. If it is the winning bid when the auction closes, and the reserve is met, you have bought the car. Do not place a bid to see what happens.
Bids are recorded in an append-only ledger. Nothing in that ledger is ever edited or deleted, by us or by anybody else, and the database itself refuses the attempt. A correction is a new entry saying what was corrected, by whom and why, so the history reads as a sequence of events including its own corrections.
In rare cases a member of staff can retract a bid, for example an obvious keying error caught immediately or a bid placed by an account we later find should not have been bidding. A retraction is a decision we make, not a right you hold: asking is not the same as being granted. Every retraction is logged with the actor, the time and the reason, and the other bidders on the car are told it happened.
If you think you have made a genuine mistake, tell us immediately through the contact page. Speed is the only thing that helps.
You can place a single bid at the next allowed amount, or set a maximum and let the platform bid on your behalf. It raises you one increment at a time, only as far as it has to, and never past your maximum. Setting a maximum does not mean spending it.
Your maximum is private. It is never shown to another bidder, never shown to the seller, and never appears in the public bid history. If two bidders set the same maximum, the one accepted first has priority.
The minimum raise steps up with the price:
| Current bid | Minimum raise |
|---|---|
| Under $10,000 | $250 |
| $10,000 to under $50,000 | $500 |
| $50,000 and above | $1,000 |
The band is chosen by the bid being raised from, so a bid that crosses a boundary uses the increment of the band it started in. A car can run on its own ladder, and its page always shows the raise that applies right now.
Every car is its own auction with its own end time, usually about 7 days after it opens. A bid placed inside the final 2 minutes pushes the end time out by 2 minutes, and it does so as many times as bidding continues. An auction does not close while people are still bidding. Each car’s page states the exact window and extension that apply to it.
Our server’s clock decides. Not your device clock, not the countdown as your browser last drew it, and not the timestamp on an email or a text. The countdown on the page is our clock rendered for you, and if your connection drops it may be stale. If the price or the countdown stops moving, stop bidding until you have reloaded the page and can see current figures.
A live auction runs a few times a year and is worked by an auctioneer in real time. Cars in it close on the hammer, not on a clock, and one hold covers every car in it. Video from the room can lag the bidding data by several seconds, so the current-car status and the accepted-bid message on the platform are what you should act on. Never wait for the auctioneer’s voice in the video.
Most cars carry a reserve: a confidential minimum the seller has set, below which the car does not sell. The page tells you whether the reserve has been met. It never tells you the figure, and neither will we if you ask. Some cars are offered with no reserve and are labelled that way.
If bidding ends below the reserve, the car is recorded as not sold, and the published result says so. We do not quietly make up the difference to a seller so that a pass can be reported as a sale. A sold price on this site is a price somebody actually bid.
After a pass, the seller may choose to talk to the underbidder privately. That is their business, it happens off this platform, and it does not change the published result.
If you win, the buyer fee is 5% of the winning bid, with a minimum of $250 and a maximum of $5,000. The maximum is absolute: above a winning bid of $100,000 the fee stops rising, so the fee on an expensive car is the same as the fee on a very expensive one.
The fee goes on the card you saved when the auction closes. It is not taken in advance, and it is calculated in whole cents by the same code that renders the figure on the car’s page, so the page and the charge cannot disagree. If the charge fails we try again and tell you; until it goes through, your hold stays in place.
Card processing on the fee is passed through at cost, as its own line: nothing right now, until our processor sets a rate. Sales tax, registration, title fees, storage and transport are not ours to charge and are not included. They are settled by you, according to where you and the car are.
Each car’s fee, minimum and maximum are frozen when it is published and stated on its page. Where they differ from the figures here, the car’s page binds.
We charge the buyer fee and we introduce buyer and seller. From there, the purchase price for the vehicle, the title transfer, the collection and the transport are arranged directly between the two of you.
We do not hold the purchase money, we do not act as escrow, and we do not transfer title. Nobody at Reggie’s Garage will ever email you new wire instructions for the car itself. If you receive a message that claims to be from us and asks you to send money somewhere, do not act on it, and tell us through the contact page.
If a winning bidder does not settle, we can capture the hold, cancel the sale, re-offer the car, and close that bidder’s registration. A seller who refuses to complete a sale that met its reserve will not list here again.
Collector cars are used property, usually decades old, often modified, and frequently restored more than once. Every car is sold as-is and where-is. Nothing on this site is a warranty of condition, mileage, originality, matching numbers, roadworthiness or fitness for any purpose.
Each listing is the seller’s account, reviewed by us before it goes live. Photographs, descriptions, condition notes and history are an honest account and not a guarantee. Where the odometer reading is marked as shown, it is the number on the dial and nobody has verified it. Estimates, where given, are opinion. Read everything, look at every photograph, and ask your questions before you bid rather than after.
You are responsible for satisfying yourself about a car, including any inspection you want to arrange. Winning is not conditional on a later inspection.
If a car turns out not to be as described, that is settled between buyer and seller. We are not a dispute-resolution service and we do not adjudicate. We do want to hear about it, because it decides whether that seller lists here again.
Anyone can apply to sell. We approve sellers, and an approved seller accepts the seller agreement before listing. You write the listing yourself and submit it; we review it, may send it back with notes, and nothing goes live until we have approved it. We turn down good cars that belong somewhere else.
If we list your car, you must own it or be authorised to sell it, you must disclose what you know about its condition, history, modifications, faults and any lien, and you must be able to transfer clean title. Describing a car dishonestly ends the listing and any sale under it.
You cannot bid on your own car, and neither can anyone we have recorded as connected to you. The platform enforces this on every bid rather than trusting anyone’s word for it. Shill bidding is the thing this house exists to be trusted about; there is no version of it we tolerate.
There is no seller fee right now. If one is introduced it will be stated in the seller agreement before you list, never afterwards.
Comments on a car are moderated. When something is removed, the removal carries a recorded reason and is logged. Sellers have a right of reply on their own car. What gets removed is abuse, personal information, spam, and attempts to take a sale off the platform, not opinions about a car that a seller dislikes.
Do not attempt to interfere with the bidding: no automated bidding tools, no scripted access, no probing the site for weaknesses, and no coordinating bids with anyone to move a price. We can suspend an account, cancel bids placed by it, and close its registration.
Keep your own account secure. Use a strong, unique sign-in, turn on multi-factor authentication when it is offered, and never share a verification code. Staff will never ask you for your password.
Outbid alerts, ending-soon reminders and other messages are sent to help you, and they can be delayed or filtered by things outside our control. A missing alert is never a reason a bid did not have to be honoured, and it is never proof of what happened.
The platform’s own record is what counts: the car’s page, your dashboard and the stored bid ledger. Message frequency varies. Standard message and data rates may apply to text messages, and you can stop them at any time by replying STOP or from your dashboard.
We work hard to keep the platform up while auctions are running and we cannot promise it will never fail. Networks drop, providers have outages, and a browser tab can go stale without saying so. If a technical failure affects an auction materially, we may extend it, pause it, reopen it, or void and re-run it. That decision is ours, it is logged, and we will say what we did.
Except where the law does not allow it, we are not liable for indirect or consequential losses, including a car you did not win because a message was late, a page did not load, or a connection dropped. The remedies described in these terms are what we offer.
Everything on this site, including the photography, descriptions and the design itself, belongs to us or to the people who licensed it to us. Do not scrape it, republish it or reuse it commercially without asking.
What we collect, why the bid ledger and the audit log cannot be edited or erased, how long records are kept and how to ask us about your own data are all set out on the privacy page. It is worth reading before you register, because the immutability of the ledger genuinely limits what deletion can mean here, and we would rather you knew that in advance.
Some things belong in a document like this and are genuinely not decided yet. Rather than write a plausible sentence and leave you to discover it was invented, here is the list:
This page is our plain-English statement of how the house works. It has not been reviewed by a lawyer, and it is not legal advice. When the items above are settled, this page will say so and the date at the top will change.
If anything here is unclear, ask before you bid rather than after. The contact page is the one official route to a person, and the help center answers the questions that come up most.